Friday, 9 May 2014

Tuxedo, tails, Cutaway & Co. - The Hierarchy of suits

 
During the single or double row men's suit is the best known representative of its genus and getting into the "hierarchy of suits" forms, so there are some more cuts and finishes, the gentleman much better stand up straight on festive occasions to face. Since this suit variants is paid not as much attention as a rule, we would like to present it today, at least in a general overview. In the area of ​​day suits this fall of Stresemann and the cutaway, while both tuxedo and tails are worn only at night.

Stresemann

For festive or special occasions Stresemann is recommended. One form of the suit, which consists of dark jacket in medium length, stripe pants and light gray vest. For this, a shirt is worn with turn-back cuffs and cufflinks. This variant was introduced at the beginning of the last century by former Chancellor Gustav Stresemann , who was looking for a less formal alternative to the cutaway. The suit variant Stresemann is only worn during the day to about 18 clock.

Morning coat

The Cutaway, as, big brother 'of the Stresemann called, sees the tails very similar, because they both have a dovetail jacket. When the cutaway jacket is either black or dark gray and is commonly worn to a striped trousers. This also includes a light gray waistcoat, a shirt with wing collar and usually a silver-gray tie scarf, also called the plastron. In contrast to the fairly modern Stresemann the cutaway is a traditional and very festive day suit that comes often at weddings used. As the Stresemann he is also only worn during the day to about 18 clock.

Tuxedo

The Smoking as a particularly elegant suit is considered small dress suit, then, is the nocturnal counterpart to Stresemann and is a step below the tails. The name of the Tuxedo based on the fact that he was a suit jacket originally, which was worn while smoking in the smoking room. He is known as a tuxedo in the U.S. and is a dinner jacket referred to in British English as, '.
 
Traditionally, a tuxedo are the components of the following elements: As a mid-length jacket on or double-breasted jacket is worn without a back vent. In general, it only has a close button and a peaked lapels or a shawl style that is either trimmed with satin or silk. The Jacketttaschen run as welt. The trousers are to be made from the same fabric as the jacket, has no belt loops and is provided on the outer leg seams with simple trim strips made from silk satin. The shirt, with optional Kläppchen or collar, has turn-back cuffs and a hidden button placket. For this purpose, the Lord wears a black bow and a cummerbund made ​​from silk satin that covers the waistband.

Tails

The tails in the hierarchy of the suits at the top and is worn only on festive occasions in the evening. The jacket has a tail coat peaked lapels, back the typical Schwalbenschwänzchen and front waist-length cut. The jacket is worn open, without exception. The Frackhose has basically worn instead of a silk ribbon, like the tuxedo, two silk ribbons at side seams and comes with suspenders. The special dress shirt has a strengthened Piquébrust, vertical tails and a wing collar buttons. Over the shirt both a white tuxedo vest and a white ribbon is worn, both of which are also made of cotton pique.

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